The Master Gardener: Get real — Adjust to the wind
By Kris Nesse
Grant-Adams County Master Gardener
“The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the realist adjusts the sails.” —William Arthur Ward
Perhaps it’s the ocean-like whitecaps on Soap Lake or the clouds of dust on the horizon or maybe even the Halloweenesque howling coming from the garage, but I’ve been thinking about wind lately. We’re actually natives of the area, but have been gone for almost 40 years, living near the Canadian border. The wind is proving one of the challenges of readjustment, especially on a barren bluff. So, in the spirit of realism, it seems wise to learn about windbreaks.
“A windbreak is a planting, usually of both trees and shrubs, designed and established to reduce undesirable effects of strong winds.” (Hanley, WSU Extension Forester, from an excellent publication, Trees Against the Wind, available at WSU Extension offices) Windbreaks provide multiple benefits:
• Reduced soil erosion downwind 10 to 20 times their height. Plantings also filter wind-blown particles from the air.
• Crop protection that can increase yields up to 44 percent while reducing water use, helping pollination, improving quality.
• Energy conservation of up to 40 percent!
• Wildlife habitat, especially in open areas with little woody cover. Windbreak plantings increase biodiversity.
• Aesthetic improvements, like variety, in the landscape, visual and sound barriers, not to mention the pleasant flowering, foliage, bark, smells of many species.
• Other potential benefits can be livestock protection, snow control and harvestable products.
With all these benefits, I’m tempted to start throwing some shrubs and trees into the weedy ground. Like many farmers and gardeners before, though, this approach would likely meet with little success. Research indicates that to thrive, windbreak plantings require careful planning and adequate maintenance.
Planning
Design: Where will the planting go? Windbreaks work best when oriented at right angles to the prevailing winds. This requirement means the homeowner needs to note when the most damaging or annoying winds occur and what direction they usually come from (NW for our property, which means taking into account both our neighbor’s and our own view). For greatest effectiveness, windbreaks should be no more than 100 feet from the home, garden or other area needing protection. This planting distance is impacted by the mature height of species selected. Consider openings (driveways, roads, etc.) and arrange with offset rows to avoid the dreaded ‘wind tunnel’ effect. Obviously, the space available will influence how many rows of what species are planted. There are many options from the traditional five-row mix of evergreen and deciduous trees and shrubs to newer twin-row, high-density methods requiring less space.
Species Selection: Climate and soil obviously impact the types of trees and-or shrubs that can be grown on a particular site.
Most of us in the Columbia Basin have cold, windy winters and hot, windy summers, which can limit options. We are not prone to much rainfall, so we need to consider less thirsty species. Ideally, most trees prefer deep, well-drained loam. Reality for most Grant-Adams County homeowners is much different. For instance, our site has relatively shallow soil over basalt. Much of the ground in our area tends to be a little alkaline, but soil tests are the best indicator.
Once design considerations (how many rows of what height are possible) and climate and soil constraints are taken into account, lists of shrub, evergreen and deciduous options are available from many resources, including the ones listed here. Many of these note mature height and crown width, life spans, moisture requirements, species characteristics, etc.
Site Preparation and Planting: According to the experts, the single most important aspect of successfully establishing a windbreak is site preparation. Basically, this means giving the new shrubs and trees a fighting chance. Eliminating the competition is critical in this effort. A mechanical approach (tilling, plowing or discing) in the fall is one recommended method. Minimizing the amount of soil disturbed by leaving strips of sod between rows reduces erosion and weed seed invasion. Chemical site preparation may be done with selective herbicides (always in accordance with label recommendations). Herbicides should not be allowed to come in contact with tree roots and some have limited effectiveness under dry conditions. The use of fabric mulch is highly recommended as a method to control weeds and conserve moisture and nutrients the young trees need for growth.
Planning for irrigation is another critical component of site preparation. For at least the first three years, the young trees require regular, deep watering. In windy, arid regions like ours, drip irrigation is best.
Planting correctly, with specified distance between individual plants and between rows, is also important. Tree-planting directions are widely available and should be followed carefully.
Maintenance
Even after careful design, site preparation and planting, effective wind protection results only if the young trees receive good follow-up care. For the first two to three years, available soil moisture is critical. This entails both irrigation and weed control. Paying attention to soil type, species requirements and temperature and wind conditions, first year trees generally need deep watering once weekly, through the first couple frosts. As trees become established, watering can be less frequent. Weeds always grow and they rob nearby plants of moisture and nutrients. Plan on using one or more techniques fabric or other mulch, cultivation or herbicide to keep weeks in check. Trees also require frequent examination for damage from critters large and small and sometimes protection. Larger pests (cows, deer) may require fencing. Damage from smaller enemies (rodents, rabbits) may be prevented through the use of tree cylinders. Windbreaks should be checked frequently for signs of insect, disease or herbicide damage.
After all the planning and care, picture 30 mph winds encountering a windbreak, rising up and over your home and gardens, with wind velocity reduced to a mere 10 mph. Personally, I’m dreaming of effective protection from the wind in a mere three or four years!
Kris Nesse is a retired teacher and new Grant-Adams County Master Gardener. She has CWU degrees in English and psychology and an EWU MA in curriculum development.
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Posted by admin
on Nov 5 2009. Filed under Adams County, Outdoors.
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